Seed Saving

Seed saving is one of the most important skills an organic farmer can develop. It builds independence from seed dealers, selects for local adaptation, and maintains biodiversity.

The 5 Steps of Seed Saving

Step 1: Select the Right Plant (Most Important)

Never save from average plants. Select the best 5–10% of plants based on:

• Vigour: Fastest germinating, strongest establishment
• Yield: Highest-producing plant in the field
• Disease resistance: Healthiest plants when neighbors showed disease
• Fruit quality: Best taste, ideal shape, best nutrition indicators
• Maturity: True to expected maturity date for variety
• Local adaptation: Plants that thrived with minimal inputs

Mark selected plants at the beginning of the season — once you know which are best, not at harvest.

Step 2: Allow Full Maturity

Seeds saved before full maturity have low germination rates. For each crop type:

• Fruits (tomato, brinjal, chili): Harvest when fruit is over-ripe — past eating stage
• Grains (paddy, wheat, maize): Harvest when moisture drops to 14–16%
• Beans/pulses: Let pods dry completely on plant before harvesting
• Vegetables left to bolt (carrot, radish, onion): Let them flower and produce seed heads

Step 3: Extract and Clean

Wet processing (tomato, cucumber, watermelon):

1. Scoop seeds with pulp into bowl of water
2. Ferment 2–4 days (surface mold grows — this kills seed-borne pathogens)
3. Rinse well — good seeds sink, empty/bad seeds float and are discarded
4. Drain and dry

Dry processing (beans, grains, onion):

1. Thresh dried pods/heads to release seeds
2. Winnow — toss in breeze or fan to separate chaff from seed
3. Screen through appropriate mesh size

Step 4: Dry Thoroughly

This is the most critical storage step. Seeds must reach 8–10% moisture before storage.

• Spread in single layer on clean cloth/paper in shade
• Good airflow is essential — use a fan if humid
• Never dry in direct sun — UV damages seed viability
• Stir daily to expose all surfaces
• Duration: 7–21 days depending on crop and humidity

Moisture test: Bite a grain — if it dents softly, still too wet. If it chips hard or shatters, ready to store.

Step 5: Store Correctly

Method	Container	Duration	Best For
Room temperature	Paper envelopes in sealed tin	1–2 years	Short-term; commonly available seeds
Airtight + dry	Glass jars with silica gel	3–5 years	Most seeds
Cool + dark + dry	Metal container in cool room	5–10 years	Long-term home seed bank
Freezer (professional)	Sealed foil packets	10–20+ years	Rare/precious varieties

Critical storage enemies:

• Moisture (>12%) — causes mold and premature germination
• Heat (>30°C) — reduces viability
• Light — degrades viability
• Insects — place neem leaves or bay leaves in containers as repellent

Silica gel: Small packets absorb moisture. Add 5–10g to each jar. Replace annually (dry in oven at 120°C for 1 hour to recharge).

Isolation Requirements (Preventing Cross-Pollination)

Crop	Pollination Type	Minimum Isolation
Tomato	Mostly self	5–10 m (or cage)
Beans, peas, cowpea	Self	5 m
Paddy	Self	3 m
Wheat, barley	Self	3–5 m
Chili/Capsicum	Insects	500 m (or cage insects)
Brinjal	Insects	500 m
Maize	Wind	400–500 m
Cucurbits (gourds)	Insects	1,000 m or separate by time
Carrot, onion, radish	Insects	1,000 m
Sunflower	Insects	1,000 m

For small farms where isolation distances are impossible: Hand-pollinate and bag flowers before and after, or grow only one variety of cross-pollinating crops per season.

Germination Testing Before Sowing

Test viability before committing field space:

1. Place 20 seeds on moist paper towel
2. Roll up and keep warm (25–30°C)
3. Check at 5 and 10 days
4. Count germinated seeds

Acceptable germination rates:

• 80%: Excellent seed

• 60–80%: Good — sow at normal rate
• 40–60%: Fair — increase sowing rate by 50%
• <40%: Poor — get new seed

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Next: Seed Banks and Seed Sovereignty